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Known throughout the world as the home of Mount Everest and many of the highest peaks in the world, the Khumbu region of Nepal has much more to offer than mountaineering and trekking. Bypassed by hundreds of climbers focused instead on other goals, this region is ripe for rock climbing. Much of this region is totally unexplored for rock climbing, oddly enough in the shadow of the Holy Grail of mountaineering.
Last spring, long time Himayalan guide Becky Harrison took AMGA Rock Instructor Michael LeBlanc to show him a few locations she’d noticed through her decade of guiding the Khumbu area. Most of these locations have never been climbed, or were climbed in the distant past but forgotten. We found rusted pitons and untested crag routes just begging to be tried. Some of them so inspiring we sat for hours just fascinated with the opportunities and challenges offered.
Michael and our Nepalese staff climbed many new and old routes, and viewed some new crags for future exploration. They also found an area above Namche Bazaar littered with great bouldering. This area took several days to explore, and they still didn't exhaust all the options.
Back in Kathmandu, Michael and his new Nepalese climbing buddies found that the climbing scene is more extensive then previously thought, and good sandstone cliffs are only a 20 minute drive from Thamel, the central tourist district of Kathmandu.
For spring 2009, Becky and Michael plan to share this new rock climbing Mecca with others. Michael LeBlanc will be leading a group of climbers this spring back out to the Khumbu region, with his sights set on some of the stuff he climbed in 2008, but also some multi pitch rock faces he’d seen but didn’t get to climb. There will be opportunities to climb just outside of Kathmandu and also do some varied bouldering above Namche Bazaar.
Since Namche's not far from the highest mountain in the world, it would be a shame if we didn't take a trip up to Everest Base Camp. We’ll head to Dingboche and then to Gorak Shep before heading to EBC for a visit with some of the teams the attempting to summit.
Day 1- Arrival in Kathmandu
Congratulations, you made it! This is an exciting time, you meet your guides and if you have never been here you get to experience this crazy city. You will make your way to your hotel, settle in and start to take in the city, maybe some sightseeing, maybe some chilling out.
Day 2– Kathmandu outdoor climbing wall
This is the first morning you will wake up in Nepal. Don’t worry, we’ll try to get some climbing in today. Today you can tour the city and spend the afternoon climbing some plastic at an outdoor climbing wall (yes, they have an artificial wall in Kathmandu).
Day 3– Sightseeing and some limestome climbs
The cobwebs from traveling halfway around the world should be fading by now. Last minute logistics for our trek will be worked out today, and you will be briefed as to what to expect for the rest of the trip. You can tour the city or get on some single pitch bolted limestone twenty minutes away, you decide.
Day 4– Flight to Lukla and start of trek
Lets go! Fly to Lukla and start our first day of trekking. Once in Lukla, you will meet our wonderful Nepali staff and see the gear and supplies that are need for our trek to Everest Base Camp as well as the climbs along the way.
Day 5– Namche Bazaar
Let the altitude begin. We will head up to Namche Bazaar today at 3440m. We will have access to e-mail and phone here, as it is a regular Nepali metropolis in the mountains. Shops, bakeries, and mountaineering outfitters line the streets that are shared by trekkers and yaks.
Day 6– Bouldering rock garden. Rest day in Namche
You might ask yourself, “Where is all the rock climbing?” Well, today is the day to do some exploring. You can take a rest day and check out the village or head up to the plateau above town and explore a rock garden with short climbs, endless boulder problems and first ascents.
Day 7– Sherpa village of Khumjung
Today we’ll head to the village of Khumjung, which is the home to the Sir Edmund Hillary School and many Sherpas who work on Mount Everest. The view of Ama Dablam from this village is unsurpassed.
Day 8– Granite rock climbing cliffs above Khumjung
More rock climbing anyone? Above Khumjung is Khumbu Yul Lha with rock climbing routes that will make you drool. Unfortunately, these are off limits to Westerners. But don’t worry, there is access to quality rock just outside Khumjung.
Day 9– Phortse
Let’s get going toward Everest. Our next stop will be in Phortse, which is a quiet village off the Everest trekking route. You can appreciate the historic farming life style of the Sherpa people.
Day 10– Dingboche
We have a relatively long day today from Phortse to Dingboche. Today we will traverse a steep mountainside and follow the Imja Khola River to the village of Dingboche, which is the gateway to Island Peak and other trekking peaks.
Day 11– Crag climbing above Dingboche
Rest day, but more like climbing day. You can sack out and read in town or you can check out the crags just above town. These will keep you occupied for the afternoon.
Day 12- Lobuche
On the move again. Dingboche to Lobuche today, we are getting close and pretty dang high at 4910m.
Day 13– Gorak Shep
Keep it slow and steady from Lobuche to Gorak Shep. Gorak Shep is the last settlement before Everest Base Camp. You are now at the foot of Kala Pattar (5550m), which potentially will be the highest point of your trek and boasts the best location on our route to photograph Mount Everest.
Day 14– Hike to Everest Base Camp or relax in Gorak Shep
Today is the day. We head to Everest Base Camp, a 2-3 hour hike will get you to the start of international climbers' dreams and suffering on Mount Everest, the highest peak on earth. Thousands of people live at the base of the Khumbu Ice fall each spring for a shot at the greatest objective on the planet.
Day 15- Kala Pattar and Pheriche
Anyone for a pre-dawn hike? Capturing Everest on the perfect day at sunrise is a once in a lifetime event. Let’s wake up early and hike the two hours it takes to get up Kala Pattar and get that perfect shot. Then it's back down to Pheriche to spend the night with a little more oxygen.
Day 16– Tengboche Monastery
Today you’ll get to visit Tengboche, the home of the Tengboche Monastery and the Buddhist spiritual center of the Khumbu Region.
Day 17– Namche Bazaar
Back to the internet and shopping. Everyone will be ready for pizza and donuts after our time out on the trail.
Day 18- Lukla
We have had quite a trek. Depending on how we did, we may have some time to rock climb a bit more before heading into Lukla. Today will also be our last night with our trekking staff. It is customary to hand out tips tonight after dinner and we’ll all get together for this.
Day 19– Flight to Kathmandu and more rock
Back to Kathmandu this morning and afternoon free for more local rock climbing.
Day 20– Free day for shopping, sightseeing, etc...
Shopping anyone? Spend the day getting gifts to bring home or check out those things you don’t want to miss.
Day 21– Flight home
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